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QuestionMoving from Lightroom to darktable, how long did it take you to stop hating it?

Started by Dreich, 11 Jan 2026. 12 replies, 373 views

Gear in this topic: Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark II

Dreich
Senior member

Right, I've done it. Cancelled the Adobe plan over Christmas (the renewal email was the last straw) and I'm two weeks into darktable. I'm not giving up, but I'll be honest, it's been a proper slog. I spent most of last Sunday trying to get a sky to look the way one slider would have done it in Lightroom, and it still came out a bit grey and sad. Very on brand for Scottish skies, to be fair.

Files are all from the E-M1 II, mostly landscapes in rubbish light. Which modules do people actually use day to day? There seem to be about four ways to do everything. Any tips for someone who isn't a colour scientist would be lovely.

rawtherapist
Senior member

Ignore most of the module list. The scene-referred workflow needs maybe six of them for 90% of images:

  • exposure (set the midtones, ignore the highlights at this stage)
  • filmic rgb or sigmoid (pick one, I use sigmoid now, it's less fiddly)
  • color calibration (white balance lives here now)
  • color balance rgb (saturation and the overall look)
  • tone equalizer (this is your shadows/highlights slider, with a mask)
  • diffuse or sharpen, sparingly

The grey sky is almost certainly the tone mapper squashing your highlights. Bring the sky down with tone equalizer before it gets there, don't try to fix it after. That ordering is the bit Lightroom hides from you and darktable makes you think about.

Also hide the modules you never use with a module group preset. Half the overwhelm is visual clutter. Give it a month. By March Lightroom will feel like it's guessing for you, because it is.

TomekKRK
Member

I use darktable since version 3, so maybe I can help a little. For landscape the tone equalizer is the most important module, rawtherapist is right. I made one preset for my mountain files with the mask already set for skies, and I apply it on import, then only small changes.

One more thing: for Olympus files try the denoise (profiled) module, it has a profile for the E-M1 II and is better than people expect. Not AI, but good, and fast. Small sensor files at ISO 1600 in a dark glen will thank you.

Also the styles function is very useful when you have a look you like. It took me some months to stop going back to Lightroom, so do not worry if it is slow now.

Dreich
Senior member

Ooh, didn't know it had camera profiles. Will try that tonight. And the preset with the sky mask is a great idea, I do the same three things to every single image anyway, usually while muttering at the screen. Is the styles thing the same as a preset, or is that different again? Sorry, this is the bit where I feel like I'm learning a new language

micro43mick
Member

Grand to see another m43 person giving it a go. I'm still on Lightroom but I've been giving out about the price for two years, and every time it renews I say this is the last year. GX9 files are small enough that I'd say my old laptop would cope with darktable fine. Keep us posted on how you get on, and if you're still at it in March I'll probably follow you

Dreich
Senior member

Little update since a couple of people asked. Four weeks in and I'm faster in darktable than I ever was in Lightroom for landscapes, mostly thanks to tomasz's preset idea. My routine now is: import with the preset (exposure, sigmoid, tone equalizer with the sky mask, profiled denoise), then I only really touch exposure, the tone equalizer curve and colour balance rgb for the look, and maybe a bit of diffuse or sharpen if it's going to be printed. Three or four minutes an image, and most of that is me staring at it.

What I didn't expect is that the files look different, in a good way. Highlights roll off more gently, and the grey Scottish skies have more tone in them instead of going flat white. Still slower for quick snaps of the dog, I'll grant you, and the export dialogue still confuses me. Haven't missed Adobe once, which I didn't expect

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